A straight razor (also known as a country razor) is an open blade with a handle, which was widely used before the invention of safety razors. The use of such a straight edge razor requires care to reduce the risk of cuts.
For shaving, in the first place, you need to moisten your face with hot water and apply soap foam on it with a brush.
Then take the razor, apply it to the skin at an angle and start shaving with short controlled movements of the blade. You have to walk the razor over your face two or three times, and then do not forget to sharpen it for later use.
Having learned to work with a straight razor, you can shave your face more smoothly than using any other safe razor.
Apply soap/foam on a face:
Moisten the face with hot water.
Take a hot shower and let the water flow over your face for about five minutes. This will open the pores and soften the vegetation on the face, which will greatly facilitate the subsequent shaving. You can also attach a wet hot towel to your face, as barbers do to their clients. Simply soak a small towel with hot water and hold it pressed to your face until it cools down.
Rub shaving oil into your skin.
Good shaving oil can ease the subsequent shaving. Look for a ready-made shaving aid containing natural oils, such as jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil or sunflower oil. These types of oils allow you to soften the hairs and do not interfere with the movement of the razor.
Dampen the shaving brush with hot water.
Fill the bowl or mug with hot water. Water must be warm to soften the bristles. Leave the brush to soak in water for one or two minutes. Then remove it from the water and with a sharp movement of the wrist shake off excess water.
The most high-quality shaving brush is made using badger hair. Removes from boar bristles are cheaper, and synthetic putty is considered the lowest quality.
Of course, soap foam can be applied to the face and hands, but it will be much easier to work as a putty.
Fill the mug with shaving cream or soap.
Pour out previously used water from a mug or bowl. Put a little shaving cream on it or a whole piece of sudsy foam. Soap for shaving is a cheaper option and is made using a mixture of fatty vegetable oils and glycerin. The shaving cream is similar in functionality to soap; it is better to choose the cream containing essential oils such as jojoba oil or coconut oil.
Refrain from using standard gels and shaving foam. Even though they can also be used, they cannot provide you with an equally clean shave, like quality soaps and shaving cream.
Beat the foam with a brush.
Place the wet brush in the mug. Beat up soap foam or cream. The longer you beat the used product, the thicker the foam becomes.
Apply whipped foam to the stubble on your face.
Scoop up the foam with a brush. Circular motions spread the foam over the entire area, which needs to be shaved, making sure not to miss any hair. Once the face is covered with a sufficient amount of foam, a few additional strokes of swab remove from the face of excess foam.
How to Shave with a Straight Edge Razor?
Hold the Neck of The Razor Between the Thumb and Next Three Fingers
Even though the razor has a wooden or plastic handle, you do not need to hold it. Instead, place your thumb under the neck of the razor (connecting the blade with the handle). In this case, the index, middle and ring fingers should be located on the other side of the neck. Finally, the little finger should be attached to the shaver’s shank protruding from the handle from the opposite side of the shaver’s neck.
This is the basic way to capture a razor and many people adjust it over time to ensure greater comfort and better control of the razor.
Attach the Blade to The Skin at An Angle Of 30*
The blade cannot be applied parallel to the skin, nor perpendicular to it. It should be directed to the skin at a slight angle.
Pull the Skin of The Face with The Other Hand
Start work on one side of the face. With your free hand, stretch the skin here to straighten and smooth it. Do this for each shaved area to provide a smoother shave with fewer random cuts.
Shave Your Cheeks in The Direction of Hair Growth
While holding the shaver at the right angle, start shaving from the top of the cheek. Since here the hair will grow in the direction down, also move down towards the lower jaw and chin.
Carefully work with smooth controlled downward movements of the razor. Rinse the blade and continue working from where you left off. Rinse the shaver after each shaving movement. Shave your face on both sides.
Even experienced users of dangerous razors sometimes make mistakes. In the very beginning, you will be cut. Do not despair. If you cut yourself, squash the skin in this place for a few minutes or treat the cut with a hemostat powder.
Shave Your Chin and Upper Lip
It’s simplest to shave your chin, continuing to move from your cheeks. The skin in this place is easy to cut, so work briefly with gentle movements towards the lower point of the chin. Stretch your lips when shaving the area around them.
Shave the Neck and The Area Under the Jaw
All other zones shave in the same way as cheeks. Tilt your head back, pull the lower jaw upward with your free hand and start shaving the submaxillary zone with downward movements of the razor. After shaving the skin directly under the jaw, go down to the neck.
The Second Time You Walk on It with A Razor Already Across the Direction of Hair Growth
This time, the razor will move from one side to the other. The press on the razor is not so much as before. Move from the ears to the center of the face. Rinse the shaver after each movement on the face.
If you learn to shave, think about the second pass in the face also consisted of the descending movements of the razor. So, you better get used to keeping the razor without creating an additional risk of cuts.
Once Again Apply Foam on The Face and Shave Against the Growth of Hair
Wash again with hot water and apply a cream or soapy foam on your face. The third pass with a razor across the face will provide the smoothest shaving result. Start work from the bottom of the neck. Be extremely careful not to cut yourself.
After Shaving, Rinse Face with Cold Water
Coldwater will moisturize the skin and close the pores. You can also use lotion or aftershave balm, which contains hazel or laurel water for the removal of irritation. Apply the product with a tapping motion, and do not rub it into the skin.
Wipe the Shaver Dry
Wipe the razor blade with a soft cloth or toilet paper. It is important to remove all moisture from the blade so that it does not rust. Keep the shaver away from moisture and steam.
If you want to remove the shaver for long-term storage, pre-lubricate it with oil, for example, camellia oil.
Straight Razor FAQs
A straight razor will cut through the hair close to the skin, and it will give you more comfort than double edged or safety razors. There is no chance of skin irritation as well as the risk of razor bumps and ingrown hairs.
Shaving every day is time-consuming and irritating, but for some of us, it is just the reality of things. And straight razor is one way to change up your routine.
Yes, shaving cream is an important element to get smooth and close shave. The best shaving cream for straight razor should create rich lather.
Using straight razors is not so dangerous. Although there is few possibilities to cut your skin, it will most likely be no worse than a paper cut if you take short and gentle passes.